O âmbar cinzento, essência da alta perfumaria

Por Clara Estévez

El ámbar gris, esencia de la alta perfumería

Nada tem a ver o âmbar que conhecemos em joalharia com o âmbar cinzento, utilizado na criação de fragrâncias.

Um dos produtos mais preciosos em perfumaria desde tempos imemoriais é o âmbar cinzento e a sua história navega pelos grandes oceanos dentro do corpo de baleias e cachalotes.

Por milhares de anos, valentes navegadores e baleeiros de todo o mundo perseguiam estes enormes animais marinhos para resgatar os pedaços de âmbar que podiam flutuar nas águas dos grandes oceanos.

O âmbar cinzento é uma secreção estomacal acinzentada que, os cachalotes, após a digestão, segregam ao mar – podem encontrar-se peças desde 15 gramas a quatro quilos, todo um tesouro - e que, graças ao sal e ao sol, pouco a pouco vão solidificando e flutuam pacientemente nas águas, até que alguém afortunado o encontre.

Calculam que, para que o âmbar tenha a consistência e a qualidade adequadas, é necessário que flutuem na água, pelo menos trinta anos. Um tesouro de valor incalculável na antiguidade, na qual não existia nenhum substituto químico para ele.

O âmbar cinzento puro não tem um odor "agradável", mas, paradoxalmente, é imprescindível na perfumaria pelo poder que tem como fixador de outros agradáveis aromas.

Sem o âmbar, a perfumaria não teria avançado através dos séculos, dado que as fragrâncias criadas seriam efémeras e não aguentariam meses ou anos fechadas nos preciosos frascos de vidro que os continham.

Grandes rainhas, desde Cleópatra até Maria Antonieta, as monarquias de todos os tempos e as classes mais abastadas desfrutavam do embriagador aroma dos perfumes que, em muitos casos, serviam para cobrir aromas menos agradáveis ou para enfeitiçar com o odor os seus amantes: o amor, dizem, entra pelo nariz, e o âmbar contribuiu para isso.

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