El ámbar gris, esencia de la alta perfumería
Nada tiene que ver el ámbar que conocemos en joyería con el ámbar gris, utilizado en la creación de fragancias.
Uno de los productos más preciados en perfumería desde tiempos inmemoriales es el ámbar gris y su historia navega por los grandes océanos dentro del cuerpo de ballenas y cachalotes.
Durante miles de años, valientes navegantes y balleneros de todo el mundo perseguían a estos enormes animales marinos para rescatar los trozos de ámbar que podían flotar en las aguas de los grandes océanos.
El ámbar gris es una secreción grisácea estomacal que, los cachalotes, tras hacer la digestión, segregan al mar –pueden encontrarse piezas desde 15 gramos a cuatro kilos, todo un tesoro- y que, gracias a la sal y al sol, poco a poco se van solidificando y flotan pacientes en las aguas, hasta que algún afortunado lo encuentra.
Calculan que, para que el ámbar tenga la consistencia y la calidad adecuadas, es necesario que floten en el agua, al menos treinta años. Un tesoro de valor incalculable en la antigüedad, en la que no existía ningún sustituto químico para él.
El ámbar gris puro no tiene un olor "agradable" pero, paradójicamente, es imprescindible en perfumería por el poder que tiene como fijador de otros agradables aromas.
Sin el ámbar, la perfumería no habría avanzado a través de los siglos, dado que las fragancias creadas serían efímeras y no aguantarían meses o años encerradas en los preciados frascos de cristal que los contenían.
Grandes reinas, desde Cleopatra hasta María Antonieta, las monarquías de todos los tiempos y las clases más acomodadas disfrutaban del embriagador aroma de los perfumes que, en muchos casos, servían para tapar aromas menos agradables o para hechizar con el olor a sus amantes: el amor, dicen, entra por la nariz, y el ámbar ha contribuido a ello.
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