O jasmim, o aroma da doçura feminina
A essência de jasmim é a alma de muitos perfumes de luxo e, juntamente com a rosa, a flor mais utilizada na perfumaria. Floresce entre junho e outubro, mas as flores mais apreciadas são as que se colhem...
A violeta, o aroma dos amores divinos
A violeta é a base de muitos aromas, embora o seu penetrante aroma seja cada vez mais suavizado na Alta Perfumaria. Uma flor tão pequena e difundida, e no entanto, tão apreciada.
O nome botânico da flor da violeta é Viola Odorata, é uma pequena planta que atinge os 15 centímetros de altura, sem caule e com uma raiz perene. Tem umas flores grandes –de 2 centímetros de comprimento- e muito vistosas. Estas flores são perfumadas, com um aroma doce e penetrante e é muito utilizado em perfumaria. São de uma cor entre azul e púrpura -que dá nome à cor violeta-, mas também podem ser brancas.
A violeta floresce entre março e abril, os campos são ceifados para recuperar os caules e as folhas e posteriormente são destilados com solventes voláteis para obter a essência absoluta. É utilizada em perfumaria desde as origens da mesma.
Sabia que a mitologia atribui a criação da violeta a um pedido de Zeus à deusa Gaia, para honrar a sua amante Io?
Diz a lenda que quando o deus Zeus se apaixonou por Io, ordenou à Terra que criasse em sua honra a flor mais exquisita e Gaia criou Ion –violeta em grego-. Zeus tinha-se encantado com a beleza de Io e tentava-a em sonhos para que se entregasse a ele, contra a vontade da sua esposa e do pai de Io. Para a conquistar, foi o pedido da criação da violeta, essa planta simples, vistosa e de fragrante odor.
Napoleão também recebeu o apelido de Caporal Violette, pela afeição que tinha por esta flor, que também se tornou o símbolo imperial napoleónico. E na época vitoriana, a sua fragrância foi muito popular e foi usada principalmente no perfume de luvas de pele; uma tendência muito difundida para exalar um aroma fragrante, num momento em que o beija-mão era protocolar.
Hoje em dia é utilizado em confeitaria –quem nunca provou um doce de violeta?-, em pastelaria e, claro, em perfumaria.
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