Ambergris, the essence of fine perfumery

By Clara Estévez

El ámbar gris, esencia de la alta perfumería

The amber we know in jewelry has nothing to do with ambergris, used in the creation of fragrances.

One of the most prized products in perfumery since time immemorial is ambergrisand its history sails the great oceans inside the bodies of whales and sperm whales.

For thousands of years, brave sailors and whalers from around the world chased these huge sea animals to rescue the pieces of amberthat might float in the waters of the great oceans.

Ambergris is a grayish stomach secretion that sperm whales, after digesting, secrete into the sea - pieces from 15 grams to four kilos can be found, a real treasure - and that, thanks to the salt and the sun, little by little solidify and float patiently in the waters, until some lucky person finds it.

They calculate that, for amber to have the right consistency and quality,it is necessary to float in water, at least thirty years. A priceless treasure in ancient times, when there was no chemical substitute for it.

Pure ambergris does not have a "pleasant" odor but, paradoxically, it is indispensable in perfumery because of its power as a fixative of other pleasant aromas.

Without amber, perfumery would not have advanced through the centuries, since the fragrances created would be ephemeral and would not endure months or years enclosed in the precious glass jars that contained them.

Great queens, from Cleopatra to Marie Antoinette, the monarchies of all times and the wealthier classes enjoyed the embracing scent of perfumes that, in many cases, served to cover less pleasant aromas or to smell their lovers: love, they say, enters through the nose, and amber has contributed to this.

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