Almíscar, doce, quente e exótico
Você sabia que o almíscar usado desde tempos imemoriais na perfumaria vem do cervo almiscarado e de outras espécies animais? O cervo almiscarado tem uma glândula que secreta uma substância de cheiro forte e é...
Âmbar cinzento, essência da alta perfumaria
O âmbar que conhecemos nas joias nada tem a ver com o âmbar cinzento, usado na criação de fragrâncias.
Um dos produtos mais preciosos da perfumaria desde tempos imemoriais é o âmbar cinza e sua história navega pelos grandes oceanos dentro dos corpos de baleias e cachalotes.
Durante milhares de anos, bravos marinheiros e baleeiros de todo o mundo perseguiram esses enormes animais marinhos para resgatar os pedaços de âmbar que poderiam flutuar nas águas do grandes oceanos.
O âmbar cinzento é uma secreção estomacal acinzentada que os cachalotes, depois de digeridos, secretam no mar - podem ser encontrados pedaços de 15 gramas a quatro quilos, um verdadeiro tesouro - e isso, graças ao sal e o sol, aos poucos eles se solidificam e flutuam pacientemente nas águas, até que algum sortudo os encontre.
Eles calculam que, para que o âmbar tenha consistência e qualidade adequadas, é necessário que flutue na água por pelo menos trinta anos. Um tesouro de valor incalculável nos tempos antigos, quando não havia substituto químico para ele.
O âmbar cinzento puro não tem um cheiro “agradável” mas, paradoxalmente, é essencial na perfumaria pelo poder que tem como fixador de outros aromas agradáveis.
Sem o âmbar a perfumaria não teria avançado ao longo dos séculos, pois as fragrâncias criadas seriam efêmeras e não durariam meses ou anos encerradas nos preciosos frascos de vidro que as continham.
Grandes rainhas, de Cleópatra a Maria Antonieta, as monarquias de todos os tempos e as classes mais abastadas desfrutavam do aroma inebriante dos perfumes que, em muitos casos, costumavam encobrir aromas menos agradáveis ou enfeitiçar os amantes com o cheiro: o amor, dizem, entra pelo nariz, e o âmbar contribuiu para isso.
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